“A realist, in Venice, would become a romantic by mere faithfulness to what he saw before him.” ~Arthur Symons.
Headed to La Serenissima? Prepare to be stunned. I was, from the moment I stepped out of the train station and saw the Canal Grande for the first time, and still am every time I’m here. La Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia, as it once was called, is just that – The Most Serene. Except for the hoards of tourists. But just skip that for now. Let’s get lost.
As we all know, the fun in Venice is in getting lost – and I mean lost. Like no-map lost. So turn off your google maps and wander. You literally can not go too far, and contrary to what you might read it is entirely possible to escape the tourists (Think San Polo or the Cannaregio, far reaches of Castello). Tuck yourself into alleyways, walk under that sotoportego when you don’t know where it leads. Follow delicious scents around the corner and find yourself at the entrance to Tonolo. Turn another corner and discover when the sunlight at the end of the narrow calle you are on opens up onto a beautiful bright tree-lined campo. Take a pause canalside for a coffee or spritz to rest your feet and your soul, and then keep going. End at a traditional cicchetteria at sunset with some local wine and a seat (if you can find one!) with a gorgeous view and in the company of locals. Chat a little, soak it in.
When in La Serenissima, wander around and see what you discover. Venice is a wanderlusty dream straight out of Paradiso (Heaven).
Experience Aperitivo
“Sometime around sunset” my Italian teacher in Venice told me, when I first asked him years ago what time people fare l’aperitivo here. Aperitivo in Venice is a must. It is a way of life, built into Venetian culture and into the day, so when I’m here I build it into mine. Over the years I’ve come to know that the reality is that Venetians “do the aperitivo” just about any time of day after 10:30am. But as Luca told me, I prefer to find my Campari Spritz just before sunset.
What is aperitivo? Well here in Venice, it’s cicchetti. Traditionally Italians eat lunch around 1pm, and dinner around 8-9pm. So there is quite a gap in between meals, allowing – almost begging – for the lovely tradition of aperitivo; a little cocktail or local wine, accompanied by stuzzichini (little snacks, usually hand-prepared) in the late afternoon. In Venice, it’s the other way around – you seek out the little snacks called cicchetti (pronounced “chi-KET-tee”), and they are accompanied graciously by a nice little glass of local wine to wash them down. If you’re thinking it’s kind of like happy hour after work, sure. But a little more of an establishment, with a relaxed flow, and the key is to linger.
What are cicchetti in Venice? Sliced bread never toasted so it is soft, on top of which you will find any number of delicious things, usually seafood or vegetable related. The traditional is baccalà mantecato – rehydrated salt cod whipped until fluffy. It is light and perfect. I always order the chicchetti with lagoon shrimps when I see them, and with this they will approvingly hand me a delicious ombra (small glass) of cold crisp local white wine, I usually look for a Friulano.
Step out of your comfort zone just a bit and try all of the combinations and flavors you would never think of but thankfully they do. Ask them behind the counter which wine they would recommend for you. In the cicchetterie the servers are friendly (sometimes just busy) and actually enjoy giving advice when asked. These amazing places are largely owned and run by families…don’t forget they are locals themselves, experts in the cuisine and local ingredients, they study the wine and know what to recommend, and are there to help you. It’s also a great way to get some Italian under your belt. You can ask: “Quale vino mi consigliate?” Have fun!
Best cicchetti in Venice
Cantine del Vino già Schiavi, in the Dordoduro. Bar All’Arco, in San Polo (but near the Rialto Bridge). Al Timon, in the Cannaregio. The bar at the Hotel Canal Grande also has a fantastic, more traditional Italian aperitivo, outside right on the grand canal which I head to every time I am here in Venice. There are only a few tables and it is not well known so there is usually a table or two open. They have tableside service and will let you linger there. It is the perfect way to relax and watch the fury of happenings on the grand canal as you sip your spritz. For me, that would be a Campari Spritz!
These are my favs but remember you are in Venice. There are several fabulous bacari (cicchetti bars) all throughout the city. Wander, pop into places, taste things. Ask for help and they will help guide you. Keep your eyes open and appetite ready.
“If I were not King of France, I would choose to be a citizen of Venice.” ~ Henry III of France
Things to do in Venice
There are several musts in Venice you have to see with your own eyes when here in the city. Piazza San Marco and the Campanile, St. Mark’s Cathedral itself with its golden mosaics, the Rialto Bridge and its magnificent views of the grand canal. They must be done, and rightfully so. They are majestic, and to visit them has been among some of the more elevated cultural experiences of my life. Italians themselves travel to Venice from elsewhere in Italy to visit these gorgeous places. But after having experienced these there is quite a bit more to discover about La Serenissima. Below are some of my favs. And if you come across anything that says “no tourists” or “no tourist menu” – put on your brave face and definitely go there.
1. Church of San Giorgio Maggiore
An absolutely gorgeous 16th Century Benedictine basilica designed by Andrea Palladio. You can see it’s bright gleaming white marble facade beckoning you just across the water from the Piazza San Marco, visible from the columns of San Marco and San Todaro – if you want to heed what the locals do, don’t walk between them! Head over to San Giorgio on the vaporetto from San Marco (Tip: sit at the back of the boat outside as the boat pulls away headed toward San Giorgio for some amazing views of San Marco and the historical entrance from the water to Venice). A huge and quiet sun-drenched piazza awaits you as you step off the boat, very welcome after the ever present crowds at San Marco. Be sure to linger here in the Venetian sunshine, it blankets the entire piazza and lights up the facade of the church. Soak in the sun’s warmth here while your ears bathe in the sounds of the water lapping against the marble steps, boats going by, Italian being spoken all around you. Take the elevator up to the top of the campanile for a fantastic view of Venice’s waterways and of San Marco.
2. Grand Canal “Tour” on vaporetto line 1
This is a great way to see the grand canal from the water without having to pay a fortune. The views and buildings are the same no matter which boat you are on, and they are magnificent. This would be a great thing to do within the first 24 hours of your arrival in Venice, to get your bearings and understand better the layout of the city. This is the best ACTV/vaporetto map. Grab a vaporetto ticket (see note below first!) and hop in line for the number 1 boat, ideally either from the Ferrovia (train station) heading toward San Marco or San Zaccaria (at San Marco) heading toward P.le Roma so that you can start at one end of the grand canal and end up at the other.
There are guided tours of the grand canal and its buildings which you can download on your device ahead of time that will explain to you in real time the significance of the things you’ll see along the way including buildings and water ways. Rick Steves has a good one (free) here. Tip: once on the boat, head through the doors and through the inside all the way out of the doors to the outside back of the boat. There are more seats out here and you’ll enjoy fabulous unobstructed views of sights along the grand canal, especially fantastic for photos. And bonus – the vaporetto captains will not yell at you for standing up like they will if you sit in the front!
***A note about obtaining vaporetto tickets in Venice: I would not recommend buying your tickets individually (per ride) such as at the ticket kiosks or windows. It is much more expensive this way (now 9.50 euros per person each way) and the lines can be prohibitively long. Instead, buy a Venezia Unica Card ahead of time, either at the train station, the airport, or online here. I do this every time I’m here in Venice, it’s the first thing I buy when I arrive. The train station and airport both have easy-to-find Venezia Unica offices and you can buy a 1-day, 2-day, 3-day, or 7-day card which will allow you to hop on/hop off the vaporetto any time/any day/any route. Instead of waiting in the long lines every time, do it like a local and just hold your card up to the tornelli (little gates), they will click green and open, and you’ll head right through. If you don’t have a Venezia Unica Card, you’ll spend a lot of your precious time waiting in line.
3. See an evening concerto in Piazza San Marco
Two, sometimes three, of the restaurants in the piazza including the famous Caffè Florian have orchestra stands from which they play beautiful music for patrons and passers by in the evening (In Italy the “evening” means from dinner onward until you go to sleep!). You do not have to eat at the restaurants to enjoy the music. The musicians politely take turns, so as not to play over one another. If you walk through or linger in the middle of the piazza you can hear them all in succession, with the Church of San Marco up-lit just beyond you giving your concerto the most beautiful backdrop in the world.
4. Explore the Cannaregio
This sestiere (neighborhood) is one of the best for wandering. It’s huge, and there is a lot to discover. More locals here and fewer tourists, great bacari (cicchetti bars), and it houses the Madonna dell’Orto church, one of my personal favorites, with incredible original works by Tintoretto and his historic studio just across the canal. When you wander through the Cannaregio you get the feeling of what it’s like to actually live and exist in Venice. Stop at Al Timon while you’re there, you won’t regret it. For great coffee, don’t miss Torrefazione Cannaregio.
5. Book a concerto or see a play at Teatro La Fenice Opera House
I remember on my second trip to Venice years ago I stumbled upon this amazing opera house. I didn’t even know it existed at the time and did not speak any Italian whatsoever. I was with a friend and she told me we should go to the box office and see if there was anything available that night, to which I promptly replied “No way!” as I pictured my last-minute self awkwardly stumbling past beautifully dressed Italians in heels all speaking perfect Italian, and me probably going through the wrong door onto the stage or something horrible. She promptly ignored me and proceeded right to the box office and bought us two tickets for the only thing that was playing that week – a concert with two violinists from Austria, and she asked for box seats. I’ll forever be glad she did, it was fabulous. Probably one of the best musical experiences ever, and I go back whenever I can. Ornately decorated inside with a strikingly interesting history, and very Venetian – get the box seats they are actually not that much more expensive. I’d recommend dinner at Al Covo before or after, depending on your showtime, for the perfect pre or post theatre dinner experience.
6. Take a night walk
Venice is safe, so you really don’t have to worry about wandering around at night. There is a distinct quality of Venice that is felt only a night, a sort of soft serenity and stillness. Walking through the streets at night is lovely and quiet, and every now and again you’ll stumble across an open bar or small restaurant glowing from the inside, the glow from which lights up the walkways as you pass by. Late night wine bars are cozy and inviting (my favorite is this one) and if you wander too far from your accommodation you can hop on the vaporetto to get comfortably back home.
7. Visit Murano & Burano
Burano first, it’s further and you can try the famous Risotto alla Buranella at Trattoria al Gato Nero da Ruggero for lunch (email or call for reservations first). More colorful and beautiful even than all of the photos you’ve seen, to see Murano and Burano in person is truly special. It’s a photography dream. In the Spring, wisteria vines cover everything and the weather is perfect. Try to grab a seat on the boat to Burano if you’re headed there from Venice, it takes ~35min.
I love Venice dearly and will always go back. If you have any questions feel free to contact me here, and let’s chat! Enjoy La Serenissima!
