“Through these old streets I wander dreamily; Around me Florence sweeps her busy tide of life.” – William Leighton
My personal recommendations for Florence, Italy (i.e. not from a guidebook!)
These are things I do and places I visit every time I am in Florence, Italy. My “go-to’s”.
Thinking about going to Florence, Italy or have a trip planned? Congratulations! Florence is a fantastic city, unrivaled in my opinion. There is plenty to do and see in Firenze, just about everywhere you turn there are beautiful works of art, gorgeous churches, majestic piazzas, and some of the worlds best museums. The city of Florence is unmitigated art and culture heaven.
In addition to all of Florence’s famous must-do’s on your agenda, with some insider knowledge and personalized recommendations you can ensure your trip to Firenze is extra special. Think: Aperitivo at sunset in small piazza full of Florentines, chatting with locals and making friends before your dinner reservation. Or of the people drinking their Aperol Spritz’s next to you telling you which local wine bar is the best. Or wandering around the outdoor market on market day at Santo Spirito finding gorgeous veg or antique treasures you’ll get no where else. Or grabbing the best porchetta sandwich of your life with fresh delicious salsa verde wrapped in paper, eating it as you make your way away from the crowds to your favorite piazza. This is the Florence you must see and experience in my opinion.
Below are my personal recommendations for things to do and places to stay, as well as local places to check out while you’re there. Buon divertimento!
Must-do: aperitivo.
Starting with this because it is the best of rituals and you must do it even if you only have one night in this gorgeous city.
- Any bar in the Piazza della Passera (pronounced PASS-er-ah). This is my number one recommendation for a local experience in Florence. So.much.fun. This piazza is in the Oltrarno – one of Florence’s best neighborhoods. It is smaller, full of real Florentine life, and beautiful. Walk into any of the bars in the piazza, grab a spritz, sit at a table outside and chit chat with your neighbors. The most beautiful way to spend the sunset hours before your dinner reservation.
- Gilli. Smack in the middle of the famous Piazza della Repubblica with the most amazing views of the piazza (think great people watching!). They have every kind of drink & app on their menu plus some fun extras. They are always kind to tourists and locals alike. Tip: if you let the hostess know nicely that you’d like to wait for a seat up front by the windows, they will allow it and keep their eye out for you, letting you know when one opens up. The seats up front are cushioned and very comfortable, face the piazza, and you can stay for as long as you like. Great for a late-afternoon break after your trip to the museum, or shopping, and all of the walking you have likely been doing.
- Loggia Roof Bar – in the Hotel Palazzo Guadagni. This would win the award for the most gorgeous aperitivo experience in Florence – plus they are nice! Not hard to find and great views, delicious stuzzichini (snacks!), and of course delicious and beautiful cocktails. They are also open late – sooooooo…..nightcap.
Places to Stay in Florence, Italy.
Neighborhoods matter, pick a good one. This way you’ll not only be going back to your apartment or hotel after a long day, but back to your “neighborhood” and enjoying all it has to offer. It’s all about location.
“Florence is actually a very fateful city. Often one has a sense of Florence answering one back, if you know what I mean.”
― Glenn Haybittle, The Atelier
Palazzo Belfiore
This is a fantastic option in one of the best locations in Florence. This is a small collection of apartments, but you will be treated as if you are in a hotel. The Belfiore is exquisite, and very well priced for what you get. Very clean and beautiful apartments with Florentine touches throughout. I would recommend the Bianco Cappelo apartment or the Francesco de Medici apartment if either are avail for your dates, but all of the apartments are spectacular. It is the place I usually recommend for friends and family when they come to Florence. You will be well-situated, and well taken care of here.
Santa Felicita Apartment David
I like to recommend places that have the feel of Florence, that let you know you are living and breathing in this city. This apartment is no exception, and its location can’t be beat. It is charming, clean, and well-hosted. Beautiful touches throughout and original hard wood floors. There is an elevator and air conditioning (two musts for me I am ashamed to say in apartments I rent in Italy), two beautiful bedrooms and two bathrooms. The apartment is literally next to the Ponte Vecchio – it is even visible from the window of one of the rooms. Step out of your door and you are in the heart of the city. Step back in and you are in your cozy Florentine home away from home.
Hotel Duomo Firenze
If you want to be front and center – this place is it. Smack up against the Duomo and the most central of locations in the city center. Given the location, it is also quite economical. The rooms are clean, simple, and well looked after. The hotel staff are very welcoming and friendly, there is an elevator (a must!), and the breakfast is good. Here you will wake up, open your window, and be stunned at the closeness of the magnificent Duomo. The only way to be closer would be to climb it!
Restaurants in Florence, Italy.
It is difficult to write about the best restaurants in Florence, there are so many good ones – and not-so-good ones. The places I like are where the locals go. I’ve literally followed them there. Trattoria style restaurants with delicious food that do not cater to tourists. Remember to always make a reservation!
5 e Cinque
This restaurant is delicious, small, and the definition of cozy. The ambiance is truly wonderful, and it is right in the Piazza della Passera so one of the best locations in Florence. It is vegetarian – and the owner is from Liguria! So some items on the menu are not Florentine, such as the Focaccia di Recco (which you must order, it is life changing- two of them if you are more than two people and order it right when you sit down so he doesn’t tell you it’s too late in your dinner to order it). The owner/chef is slightly grumpy (but we love him!) but the food he makes – he makes with his own two hands and it is very thoughtfully prepared and so delicious you won’t miss the meat. It’s a must-try. Good wine list too.
l’Brindellone
I love this place. Delicious typical Florentine/Tuscan food in a traditional trattoria atmosphere near Piazza Santo Spirito. Lot of locals here and fewer tourists. Reasonable prices. You have to call them to make a reservation, they can’t be made online. They are very nice and will help you with the menu – ask for the truffle pasta (“Tagliolini al tartufo”). Talk to the people sitting next to you, have fun in here.
Regina Bisteca
Fancier, Florentine steak house. White linen table cloth atmosphere, amazing service, ridiculous amazing food, bougie prices but worth doing for a date night or fun night out with friends. Right near the Duomo in the city center. If you are a meat eater bisteca fiorentina is king, and you’ll get a good one here.
Ristorante del Fagioli
In the city center closer to Santa Croce. Typical Tuscan trattoria, famous in Florence, delicious and they are very nice to visitors and locals alike. Warm and cozy inside. Reasonable Prices. Hard to get a reservation.
Trattoria 4 Leoni
Returning again to the amazing Piazza della Passera here. 4 Leoni has a restaurant and a wine shop, and they are so wonderful in here. Beautiful patio right out on the small piazza, perfect for a leisurely lunch and people watching, or to step into for dinner after a fun aperitivo in the piazza at one of the local bars. Tuscan cuisine, fresh seasonal and local ingredients. Full of locals. Their tomato bruschetta is fab.
Street/Casual Food, Coffee, and Gelato
Outside of traditional restaurants, Florence has delicious casual food if you know where to look.
i Fratellini
Conveniently tucked just off the main drag very close to the Duomo, this walk-up shop has the most dreamy porchetta panino that will make you swoon. All their sandwiches are good. Tip: ask for the salsa verde. You can eat it right there with a glass of local wine which you can set on the little wine shelf while you eat your sandwich with the locals. Or you can take it to go and eat it as you walk the streets.
Vineria Sonora
This is a must-do. The Vineria Sonora is a late-night wine bar that serves only local and mostly organic wines – stuff you’ll never taste or even see anywhere else. A young couple owns it and they are always in there and so nice. I go every single time I am in Florence, usually after dinner. It’s a must on the list. Super cozy inside, just a few tables, it’s a perfect walk after your dinner. Tip: ask to sit in the back room behind the bar if available. Private & cozy.
Al Antico Vinaio
Uber famous sandwich shop and seemingly everyone who comes to Florence wants to go here. Lines can be long (up to an hour), but it’s totally worth it at least once. And then you can walk with your sandwich and eat it in the piazza della Signoria or on a bench in the Piazza Santa Croce, which is what I do. This is one sandwich I wouldn’t miss. La Paradiso is my fav.
Gelateria della Passera
Real gelato does not have over-the-top displays trying to lure you in with mountains of neon colored concoctions and cut fruit on the top. Real gelato is hand-made with the best fresh ingredients and that is exactly the case here. This is the real deal – artisinal gelato made by hand with real ingredients. Check the menu, as it changes with the seasons but there are also always the classics. If you’re here in the Summer it’s worth waiting in line…there usually is one.
Ditta Artigianale
Absolutely delicious, smooth coffee. The best cappuccino. Modern in ambiance, cool style, always full of locals. Several locations throughout Florence. My fav is the one in the Oltrarno on Via dello Sprone. Free WiFi, you can bring your laptop, order first then sit.
Artisinal Gelato Vivoli
Famous Gelateria near Piazza Santa Croce. Famous for a reason, it’s delicious. Since 1930, family owned artisinally produced gelato. My favs are nocciola & pistacchio. Get it and walk to either Santa Croce or the Piazza della Signoria.
Things to do in Florence, Italy
Of course when you’re in Florence there are must-do’s such as the Ufizzi Gallery, Accademia with The David, the Duomo, etc. Below are some of my favorite “other” things to do in the city – some famous and well known, some not.
Bargello Museum
Often overlooked museum, easier to get into, and has very famous important works – mostly sculpture including Donatello’s David which is a masterpiece. You can be in and out in an hour, or spend several hours, and it’s right in the city center. I like to eat lunch in the area, head to the the Bargello for 1-2 hours, then do aperitivo, then dinner, then the Vineria after.
Walk up to San Miniato al Monte
For me a must-do is to head up to the Piazale Michelangelo and then on to the Church of San Miniato al Monte. One of the most beautiful churches and locations in all of Florence and so peaceful with the most beautiful walk leading up to the church. Alternatively, you could take a cab up, then have a nice leisurely walk down, stopping at the Piazale Michelangelo for a gelato, photos, view… There are always local kids up there hanging out, it’s really fun to be in the piazza and just hang out. The view can’t be beat.
Boboli gardens + Pitti Palace
These are magnificent, but take time. If you had 4-5 days in Florence I’d add it for sure. If you have 1-2, skip it. The gardens are peaceful, and very Florentine. It’s a great day or even half-day activity coupled with the Pitti Palace, which houses important history and works of art.
Wander around the city center. It takes time so leave time for it. Go check out the outdoor markets at San Lorenzo. Shop for leather. I got a great weekender bag there just because I was wandering around window shopping. Stop and get a coffee, walk some more, window shop or for-real shop, stop and get another coffee. Then, decide on your aperitivo location and head there.
Basilica of Santa Croce
In my opinion the best church in the city center. Gorgeous, and has the tomb of Galileo among other important Italians. It also has a great piazza which is amazing to sit in and people watch. Each year the city hosts the Calcio Storico there – traditional Florentine (read: rough) ancient-style soccer tournament. The famous Pazzi Chapel is attached to the church.
Piazza Santo Spirito
This piazza in Florence is incredible from morning till night. There is always something going on, and the piazza has a truly “lived in” feel. There is an open air market on every 2nd Sunday of the month and it’s so fun to wander through it. There is great coffee, local life, and in the evening there are fantastic options for aperitivo – one of my favorite Italian traditions. Grab a coffee or spritz, take a seat in the piazza, and watch the world go by. Then, you can walk over to l’Brindellone for dinner.
Have questions or want more info? Florence is a place I love and will always come back to. Contact me and I’m happy to help! ~Amy
